Wałbrzych

Overview

Wałbrzych is a major commercial city in south-west Lower Silesia around 70 km. from Wrocław and close to the border with Czechia. Located by the titular Wałbrzych Mountains (part of the Sudetes), it is the second largest city in the voivodeship. Wałbrzych is most famous for the popular Książ Castle. The city is also known for its other castles, rich industrial history as well as plentiful natural landscapes. It is a popular skiing destination during winter. Wałbrzych was a small town in the Kingdom of Poland from the 10th to 14th century, mainly as part of the Duchy of Świdnica. It eventually developed a mining sector, notably silver mining. Many defensive fortifications were constructed around the town by Polish dukes, as the Silesian territories were frequently fought over. In the end, Poland lost Wałbrzych in 1392, when the Duchy of Świdnica-Jawor was absorbed into the Kingdom of Bohemia. Bohemia was annexed by the Habsburg Monarchy in 1526. For the next 4 centuries, the town was known by its German name Waldenburg. In the 16th and 17th century, Waldenburg became a major coal mining town as well as a weaving center. Austria lost Waldenburg alongside most of Silesia to the Kingdom of Prussia after the First Silesian War in 1742. Waldenburg grew into a thriving industrial city during the Industrial Revolution, exponentially expanding its coal mines and textile manufacturing. It began producing porcelain goods as well. The city was a key component of the German Silesian industrial complex. Waldenburg suffered little destruction during the Second World War; it became Wałbrzych again when the region was handed over to Poland after the war. The population drastically changed, as many Poles who were either brought to the city as prisoners during the war or lost their homes as a result of the new borders moved in. However, a small German minority remained. The industrial complex of Wałbrzych, especially the coal mines, was a vital part of Poland’s economy for the remainder of the 20th century. After the coal mines were shut down in the 1990s, many of them were converted into tourist attractions, cultural centers and museums. The tourist sector has grown significantly since the 2010s, helped greatly by investments in local infrastructure.

Książ Castle

In northern Wałbrzych stands Książ Castle, the largest castle in Lower Silesia and the third largest in Poland. It is the main point of interest of Książ Landscape Park as well as the most famous attraction in Wałbrzych. More than 700 years old, Książ Castle has an impressively unique history, from housing multiple influential royal families of Polish and German origin to being the subject of a popular modern urban legend.

Książ Castle’s origins date back to the late 13th century. Duke Bolko I of the Polish Piast dynasty constructed Książ Castle after the previous castle was destroyed. It was a vital stronghold for the defense of the Duchy of Świdnica and Silesia due to its alleviated location as well as the surrounding forest. After the death of his son Bolko II in 1368, the castle was claimed by Bohemian king Wenceslaus IV. It would subsequently be owned by multiple Bohemian nobles for the next century. Matthias Corvinus, King of Hungary, gained ownership of Książ Castle in 1482. During the brief period of Hungarian rule, Książ Castle underwent a major structural change; many defensive fortifications were converted into residential areas.

In 1509, the castle was purchased by Konrad I von Hoberg as a residence. The Hochberg family, as the name became known as, would reside here for more than 400 years, longer than any other dynasty. Starting with Hans Heinrich I, the Hochbergs fully transformed Książ Castle from a military fortress to a vibrant aristocratic household. The gothic architecture of the castle was mixed with renaissance and baroque styles of subsequent centuries. The trenches, moats and castle walls were removed and replaced with terraced gardens. A big reconstruction was overseen by Konrad Ernest Maximilian in the 18th century, resulting in the current outbuildings, gatehouse and mausoleum (then a summer pavilion) among others.

Książ Castle was modernized in the second half of the 19th century by the influential Hans Heinrich XI, who made plans for many additions to the castle ground. These included the roads and parks in Książ Landscape Park. The last Hochbergs to own Książ Castle and significantly influence its look were Hans Heinrich XV and his wife Princess Daisy von Pless (Mary Theresa Cornwallis-West). Between 1911 and 1914, Hans Heinrich XV built the Wałbrzych Palm House as a present for Daisy. The First World War and the German economic crises that followed put the Hochberg family in a state of great financial difficulties. Initially, they tried to sell some of their properties and converted a part of the castle complex into a hotel in order to raise funds. At the onset of the Second World War, however, they were forced to sell Książ Castle to the German authorities.

During the Second World War, Książ Castle was turned into a military headquarter and incorporated it into Project Riese: a plan to construct numerous underground structures and bunkers in Lower Silesia. Overseen by the paramilitary organization TODT, a large tunnel network was built under the castle in 1944–45. Its true purpose remains a mystery, as little documentation about it exists. This has led some to believe in the famous gold train urban legend. During and after the war, Książ Castle was devastated; furniture and valuables were destroyed or stolen, and some of the interior was demolished to make room for an elevator shaft down to the tunnels.

The first post-war renovation occurred in the 1970s after funding was secured. Since 1991, Książ Castle as well as Książ Landscape Park have been owned by the Wałbrzych government. The exhibition titled "The Metamorphoses of Książ Castle" was opened in 2015, bringing over many the art pieces from the National Museum in Wrocław that previously belonged to the Hochberg family. The tunnel network was officially opened to the public in 2018. During spring and summer time, visitors are able to walk down into the old underground labyrinth in small groups with a guide for a one-of-a-kind experience in one of the last remnants of the Second World War. Research and preservation work continue to this day.

Aside from the castle, Książ Landscape Park has a few more places of interest: the Hochberg Mausoleum, the Stallion Stud Farm, the ruins of the Old Książ Castle and a lookout point where one can view Książ Castle from a distance.

Hochberg Mausoleum

The building that is today the Hochberg Mausoleum was constructed in 1734 as a summer pavilion for the Hochberg family. As such, it is located close to Książ Castle. The summer pavilion was converted into a burial chapel in 1883; among the buried was Princess Daisy von Pless. In 1945, the servants of the Hochberg family, fearing grave desecration by the advancing Red Army, moved the bodies of the deceased Hochbergs out of the mausoleum. It is unknown where they were moved to.

In the present day, there are four empty sarcophagi inside the mausoleum. The walls are decorated with paintings of Książ Castle.